Constructing the needlebook part 2

To pick up the story of the needle book…(read the first installment here)

I had discarded the fraying flannel pages that I’d quickly snipped out from the inside cover of the needle book. It’s possible that if I’d adjusted the tension on my sewing machine as RM suggested I could have kept the flannel from stretching, but nothing I could do would have kept the flannel from fraying. It was simply not the right material for this job.

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Constructing the needle book part 1

Today I’m going to explain how I made my new needle book…at least the first part of the process. Next time you’ll be ble to read all about the rest of the process and see the finished needle book.

After I’d finished the stitching, the first thing that needed to be done was to cut it to the correct size. Remember when cutting the finished embroidery, you will need to leave 3/4 inch or 2 cm extra fabric beyond the edge of the cover. This extra fabric will be turned under later.

The best way to ensure straight lines when cutting the embroidered linen is to pull threads out of the linen at the top, bottom, left and right sides of the design.

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Bullion knot flowers

Ever since I found out that milliners needles made bullion knots really easy to do, I have loved doing them. Before I made that discovery, I dreaded them. Bullion knots were difficult, messy and usually had to be done at least more than once. Now that I know which needle to use, they’re a piece of cake!

What’s the difference between a milliner’s needle and another needle? Most of the other needles we use to embroider are tapered; a bit wider at the eye end of the needle and getting narrower towards the point end of the needle. Milliners needles are the same thickness from the eye to just before the tip.

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